While I was in Pamplona I visited the its cathedral, spending the 3.50 required to enter the building. It was a beautiful place, worth the required donation.
![]() Pamplona Cathedral's beautiful plateresque Altar. Click here to enlarge. |
![]() Pamplona Cathedral Altar Madonna. Click here to enlarge. |
We had a long walk up a mountain southwest of Pamplona. On top we passed no less than 70 wind turbines lining the ridge of the hills. It was a grueling walk with a lot of wind to feed the turbines. But the reward was a pretty view from the top.
![]() Pilgrims climb to the wind turbines on a ridge south of Pamplona. Click here to enlarge. |
![]() Looking back to Pamplona from the turbine ridge. Click here to enlarge. |
![]() Turbines along the Pamplona ridge. Click here to enlarge. |
![]() A Japanese pilgrim heading south from this Pamplona ridge. Click here to enlarge. |
With time, walking speed has settled into about 4 kilometers per hour (2.6 miles per hour) when the going is not too rough. That also is when my left leg is not arguing which it does now and then.
Every day has begun quite cool in the mid 40s, sometimes with a hefty wind. But all I have to do is go up a few hills and I am ready to take off the coat, even though the temperature has not gone up much. It has also been mostly sunny except for one day of rain.
In the beginning of the traveling, it became apparent that in many places evening resting places were at a premium and I found myself rushing to get one of those spots. Then one day I decided to let the Universe take care of that. I slowed down to live and experience the Camino at its pace, not mine. And I have yet to find no place in the inn at the end of the day. I'll admit some of those nights were on rather cold floors, but I slept well enough.
Many fellow walkers are on serious retreats--many are serious walkers--and many more are just here, not very serious about anything, just out for a long walk. One fellow walker, a serious seeker, recounted another's interpretation of the Camino, which is a bit less than 800 kilometers. The interpretations presents the Camino as a reflection of life.
Up and down, up and down, up and down. Oh, do you get tired of going up and down and dread the next hill in the beginning days of your walking. But then soon the Camino teaches that you must have ups in order to have a panoramic view of the world and you must have downs in order to recognize the beauty provided by the ups. Without ups and downs all is flat and soon becomes so monotonous.




During the fourth day as I walked from Puenta la Reina to Estella, I had a serious "dark night of the body." I really questioned why I was beating up my body so much. Every step was painful, every smallest hill an agony, and every descent distressful. In time I came out of it. The next day I ate a lot more and felt a lot better. So I have been keeping myself well fed since. I still have my share of pains, but nothing like that day when I came close to packing it in.
As we left Estella the cemetary sing read, "As you are, so was I once. As I am so will you be."




Though this ends in Ventosa, it was first posted in Burgos 6 days later.

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Copyright © 2003 Mike Metras, www.WorksAndWords.com