This morning, I received an email from someone thinking about walking the Camino. She asked questions about taking less than the whole walk, being in shape, and knowing Spanish. In my enthusiasm, I answered that and more. When I saw what I had written for her, I realized that there may be more of you out there thinking of doing the walk and looking for similar information. So I massaged it a bit and included some additional suggestions. These are the words of one pilgrim. Every other pilgrim will have his or her opinions, some very different.
The length of time you take on the Camino is up to you. It's your Camino, your path. What is important is that you do the walk and that you are open, radically open, to whatever it is that the Universe (God) places in front of you. Some people walk as little as 100 kilometers (62 miles), a few walk both directions racking up over a 1600 kilometers (1000 miles). I walked with someone who started in Germany a year earlier and walked over 2200 kilometers (1350 miles) in two walks. Many do the walk in sections, a few hundred kilometers each year until they have done it all. I met a woman in Ponferrada who had only 30 days to walk. She was on her 21st day, well within reach of Santiago in those 30 days (she had started in Roncesvalles). I took 36 days to do that same distance to Santiago.
I feel you need to do 10 to 15 days in a row to get into the wonderful habit of walking--when it becomes a kind of second nature to walk. Then you are relaxed at it and can drink in and enjoy the day's events and feel free to wash your head in a town fountain or sleep under a tree or along a river bank to refresh yourself for the next hour's walk. My last four days, from Santiago to Finisterra were the best four days of my walk. I was really relaxed by then. In your relaxation you will be more open to whatever it is the Universe has to provide, and it will provide something, probably a lot more than you expect. It did for me.
A very unexpected and big part of the walk is the people you walk with. You will get to know many in the group you are with (the group expands and contracts as some get ahead and others behind and new ones join you). Some will become close friends as the time passes (another reason for a longer rather than a shorter walk). I was surprised that it was through talking and interacting with my fellow walkers that I found the source of many of the incites that eventually became the incomplete list of thoughts and incites you see on my July 2, Some Camino Thoughts page. I have always been basically solitary but this people aspect gave me a whole new look on community. Now I can much more easily talk with others.
If you are in good health, you can do the walk with few problems. I walked 5 to 13 kilometers (3 to 8 miles) a day for a long time before I went. But that walking was on flat land so it didn't particularly prepare me for the up and down walking of the early part of the Camino. But a few days walking the Camino itself took care of it.
Get a good backpack with support around your waist and across your shoulder straps. Take less than you think you will need, much less if you are used to "making sure" you have everything you need. I carried 8 kilos (18 pounds) and I still had several things I could have done without (remember the extra pair of jeans I had, Guys. How could you forget, you ribbed me enough for them). If you do not have something you "need" once you are on the Camino, you can get it along the way. Spain is a modern country with all the stores you will ever need.
Take along walking stick or pick one up soon after you arrive, before you walk if you can. Contrary to what most of the books I read said, your stick is not to keep off the dogs. Most of Spain's poor dogs are scared of you and move away with their tails between their legs. The others bark with their tails wagging. You need that stick to help keep you from falling in the mud. It is a very helpful third leg.
Try to know some basic Spanish. You don't have to be fluent, just the basics of getting directions and food and drink. The more you know, the better. Knowing Spanish makes it a lot more fun when you stop for your morning or midday coffee or beer or coke and bocadillo (sandwich on french bread--a staple). The more Spanish you know the more fun you'll have talking with the very friendly Spanish people.
There are many places throughout Europe to start the Camino. But when you are taking the full walk in Spain on the Camino Frances, the one I took, you normally start at Roncesvalles in the Pyrenees of Spain or at St. Jean Pied-de-Port in southern France. For a shorter walk, you can start almost anywhere. If you only have time for the minimum, Sarria is 102 kilometers (63 miles) and only five or six days from Santiago--and eligible for the Compostela, the document from the church saying you have done the minimum. You will walk through beautiful Galatian countryside. León was 14 days from Santiago for me (an average walker). It's a bit over 300 kilometers (180 miles) from Santiago. Going from León you will see broad flat plains, mountains, valleys, and the beautiful green of Galacia. No matter where you start, really consider taking another 4 days to go the extra 90 kilometers (56 miles) to Finisterra. The land is unique and the walk so relaxing by that time.
When is the best time to go? I walked in spring and everything was wonderful. All was green and flowers were everywhere. I felt like a king or Indian Rajah with all the flowers around me. Summer's heat is oppressive on the plains and in Galacia to say nothing of the crowds during the high tourist season. Summer is also very dry--most of the vegetation is yellow or brown by then. Fall is second best to spring. And some walk in the winter. If you do that, be prepared for snow and ice and very cold temperatures in the mountains--and very few companions along the way.
That may be a longer answer than you were looking for but you have many options. Grab one or two and run with them. There are so many dynamics happening when you put yourself out there that no matter how or when or where you start or how long you walk, if you are open, the Camino will be one of the most positive experiences you will have in your life.
If you want to read more, check out Nancy Louise Frey's book Pilgrim Stories: On and off the Road to Santiago (University of California Press, 1998). This book gives you a good feeling for what can happen as you open yourself to life on this marvelous excursion into self and the universe. It is reading as well now after the Camino as it did before I left. Also check out the internet references on my Spain in 2003 page.
Good luck and Buen Camino (Have a good walk).
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Copyright © 2003 Mike Metras, www.WorksAndWords.com